Friday, November 13, 2009

Reflections on the Pantheon

In two eyes and a lens

Having made your way through winding, lamplit streets, you enter with an egyptian obelisk and the massive facade just appears, weathered gray and engraved. It is a truly magnificent structure, with strong colimns and an elegant pediment. When I first arrived, a vespers was taking place, and all I could see was the candlelit altar. Beautifully lit up at night!

The grand facade features tall columns, a sloping pediment, an oversized door, and perfection. The Pantheon has perfection poured into its cement, carved into its stone, and flowing through the grand hole in the sky towards the ground at a timeless rate. Minutes become minutes, and no time passes. I am sure that no one in the Pantheon ages, that the candles never burn low, that things do not grow sick or die, for people walk and observe, all is seen and nothing made, and time flows around it, not through it. The ceiling has been stared at since its inception, and people watch it the same way today. No steps taken.

As one enters through the door, the occulus and dome slowly come into view until they are over, above, impossibly distant but oh-so-near. The occulus allows you to see clouds and blue, to let the bright circle of light fall across the walls of the dome, leading through shadows angled and geometries perfect. An awesome sight that's beautiful and otherworldly to behold. A true masterpiece, one can watch it, observe its magnificence forever. My favorite that I have yet seen. Bring me to a place, and it will be the Pantheon.

Upon entering, everyone asks “What happens when it rains?” This is apparently the question of the Pantheon. I have never met someone who asks about the technical skills involved in using increasingly lighter cement to create its massive dome before asking where the rain goes. 22 holes in the floor allow water to drain away. They also allow one to quietly, silently realize where the center of the eye is and, stealthily, grow nearer and then slowly crouch down, center a camera, look up, and behold. One is reminded of the “majestic o'erhanging firmament fretted with golden fire”, of gods long worshipped and now silent, for no oracle sits now at Delphi. Heaven stares down. So few move to stare back.

Photo Link: http://picasaweb.google.it/vetus.veneficus/Pantheon#

Chocolate

With Hazelnuts!

After having taken a one-and-a-half-hour train ride to Rome, navigating the Rome A-line metro for fifteen minutes, and changing trains during a three-hour train ride, I arrived at the Perugia train station, surrounded by tourists of all languages, accompanied by 1.5 Americans and 1.5 Italians (three total). We then crammed our selves into the remaining space on the “Choco-line” bus up the hill that forms the city, and from the end of the bus line followed the meandering road up the hillside to the large white pavilion to receive our cards. At the end of the day, this would be undone, returning sans Rome but instead waiting for an hour in a brighter lit train station. This was our pilgrimage for chocolate.

This is the Perugia Chocolate festival, with an estimated attendance of one million people, all there to try free samples from the largest chocolate companies in Italia and to then buy much more. Lines are not long, for there are no lines, only stationary mobs with mothers pushing children through, trying to get their children and themselves that next bit of chocolate. Free samples are provided via the Choco-card, which is stamped at each station. Pudding, grand marnier, a chocolate hammer, a pencil, chocolate vitamins, and a wine tasting are among the offerings of the choco-card this year, although many other samples exist as well. We wander through the mobs for a while. I buy dark chocolate and hazelnut bark for later and a Perugian hot chocolate for then. Perugian hot chocolate, however, is actually superheated pudding with a cookie straw drunk from a plastic cup. As delicious as it is, it also burns the mouth, but is thick and delicious anyway. I also buy a dark chocolate map of central Perugia for Anna, as I will be returning late and need to give her a gift in return. Although it has taken me a month and a half, I have finally realized that by “not eating chocolate”, she means that you have to give it to her for her to eat it. I also buy, along with the student she had two years ago, a model Fiat cinquecento, or 500, the same type as she loves to drive. We then spend the rest of the time continuing to wander, eventually just standing and watching the beautiful sunset. As the city is on a hill, one can see five towns from the sides. One of these is Assisi, home of San Francisco, the (abbey?) of which can be seen from Perugia. One can also see, closer by, the red sunlight hitting churches and rooftops. Although the entire festival teems with people, all there are there for the sake of chocolate, and we have a good time, despite the moments of complete gridlock. The chocolate I buy there, the bark alone, lasts me until I write this, in mid-November. I still have some left.

Photo Link: http://picasaweb.google.it/vetus.veneficus/PerugiaChocolateFestival#

Etruscans

Stones and Paint

Sorry I've been falling down on blog posts again, this is my attempt to catch up.

The cities of stone, quiet now, that they left us never bustled with the movements of workers, leaders, and civilization. Occasional offerings would have been left, quiet reminders that people visited, but never stayed. These have always been cities of the dead, entire systems designed solely for their welfare in the afterlife. From grass covered hills to the city blocks opening into piazzas, the necropoli only served the dead and their possessions among the living.The Etruscan necropolis at Cerveteri features tombs from the Villanovan, or proto-Etruscan, period, all the way to the 5th century BCE. Only one of the tombs has preserved frescoes, that being the famous Tomb of the Reliefs, filled with stucco reliefs of household objects to serve the dead in the afterlife. The other tombs are empty, quiet, some flooded, others dark, hidden. My moment of quiet reflection came when I entered a tomb to discover the floor beneath me was flooded. I jumped onto the stone blocks on either side of the entrance and crouched there, my legs bridging the gap of an entrance. I heard no sound from the outside. I had the silence of the tomb around me, cold gray stone and darkness. The tomb had stone beds, carved into the same circumference blocks that I lay across. I pondered the silence, the solitude, being completely alone. I used a few thoughts in Italian, then returned to an English comprehension of what was around me. Best of all was what I didn't think. After the first few initial thoughts, I thought nothing, letting it all be. I then vaulted off the blocks to the dry entrance way, and ascended to ground level. A wonderful tomb, nameless, only a dot on a map. I have no way to refer to it, only the one where I was. I hope to return.

Tarquinia is much more lively and Etruscan, filled with the painted scenes of frivolity for which they are famous. A smaller range of tombs lie beneath the relatively flat open area used for ceremonial games. Every room features frescoes in one form another, ranging from sparse line drawings of olive trees with simple swirling borders to intricate banquet scenes of reclining couples, attended by slaves and surrounded by scenes of nature. Here the tombs cannot be entered, only viewed through a glass box. At the bottom of each staircase, a switch lies on the wall; pressed, the lights brighten the tomb, revealing as they come to life different aspects, one by one lit until the entire room can be seen. Here I encountered my past, as I slowly found the figures I studied for an eighth grade project. Upon entering the first tomb, I found myself faced immediately by the Etruscan door to the underworld and two guardian demons, one of whom I painted for a cremation box. It struck me so hard I had to examine the room for half an hour, staring through the smudged glass and discovering slowly the various walls, the writing and the forms of letters, faded frescoes, and truly felt the hallowed and Etruscan silence of the tomb. Instead of merely a silent moment of meditation and lack of thought, I had no need to imagine the goods and frescoes that once adorned the walls, for they graced the walls already. Here I found the experience I had been looking for in the tombs before, the true Etruscan that I needed. After the first tomb, I slowly worked through them, savoring each one, taking none of them lightly when I was alone. Such a gravity they held, it was truly remarkable. What I would give to return.

Photo link: http://picasaweb.google.com/vetus.veneficus/Etruscans

Monday, October 12, 2009

Photos

Because photos haven't been showing on the blog, I've posted some in this web album.
Most of them should have labels, or be self explanatory. Everything is going fine, except for blogspot. 3 trips in the next week + PSAT. Fun!

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Ferento

Our trip two Fridays ago was to Ferento, a city that, according to current theory, was destroyed in the Middle Ages by Viterbo. It was originally an Etruscan town, but was then inhabited by Romans. There are layers upon layers of buildings, streets, etc. The most impressive feature of the ruin is a small Roman theater. This probably formed the center of the town, and so the other Roman structures they are finding in the area probably belonged to aristocracy (we walked through the foundations of a Roman house with a Medieval house build on top- neat stuff!) Much of the Roman section was taken apart and used to build the medieval city. There are massive walls that were build to withstand siege weapons that feature broken Roman columns in them for extra material, as Viterbo and Ferento were at actual war with each other for 300 years.
We got a very nice bi-lingual tour of a Roman house, a medieval house built against a wall destroyed by siege weapons, and a church that had children buried around it so that they were rebaptized every time it rained. Theres entire sections that are still covered with grass and trees. Its very neat!
Unfortunately, in the competitive world of academia (thank you, Mr. Sammartino), scientists are constantly eying each others work. I'm not allowed to post (or take) photos from the unpublished, recently excavated portions (mums the word, I'll post ). The photos below are thus from the amphitheater, which is seen commonly (its used for plays and operas in the summer) and has already been published.

A ruin that greets visitors to Ferento.





A view through the backstage door into the theatre.






















The arches that surround the back of the amphitheatre.

Macchina di Santa Rosa

The major event for the year has already happened: the trasporto della Macchina di Santa Rosa. The Macchina is a tower, several stories tall, that is carried by 100 facchini (men in white shirts with red sashes) through the streets of town. The Macchina represents and tells the story of the ascension of Santa Rosa. Every few years they build a new Macchina of a different design. In the past, it has been a white or silvery solid tower, carved with angels, and the required lions and palm fronds (symbols of Viterbo), all lit up with hundreds of candles and lights. This year has taken a different turn, with a taller, smoother Macchina, of bright gold and red accents for flowers. It is an impressive piece, truly towering over everything. The night it is carried through the town, all the street lights go dark, and it provides the only light to see by. Smoke rises from inside, and the lights splay across buildings. The statue of the saint on top is pure white, glowing and shining, and it seems truly magical. Its an incredible night, with people lining up for hours along streets solely for a glimpse of the Macchina as it passes by.
The day before the Macchina, the saint's heart (the only relic of her; the rest of her is still preserved in the Chiesa di Santa Rosa) is taken from the church and shown to the town. It is accompanied by people in costume representing the different time periods that Santa Rosa has been a saint for, from the 1200's to the 1800's, which means hundreds of people, dressed as dukes, kings, buissnessmen, members of parliament, knights, pages, nuns, entire contingents. Unfortunately, Anna fainted in the heat, and so couldn't leave the house for the Macchina, on doctor's recommendations. I watched instead with the teachers and their families from the school windows. We brought and made large quantities of food. Ms. Mazurek (the art history teacher) and I made pita bread, which turned into just regular bread, but still delicious hot from the oven and dipped in humus. It was great to see the teachers relax with their families (or not; Mr. Sammartino worked on Monday's classwork the whole time, and every teacher worked a little at some point.) It was fun, though, and we got a great view of the Macchina, as it stops for 15 minutes in Piazza Fontana Grande, which is visible from the school. It was a spectacular night!
The Facchini (carriers of the Macchina) marching up the street towards the Macchina.
The Macchina fully lit in Piazza Fontana Grande.






















A more detailed and dimmer version. As mentioned, it stopped for 15 minutes, so I had lots of time to play around with the settings on the camera.
The Macchina as it passed by the school in the street.

Viterbo

Part One of my built-up-blog-posts
So much to tell! I am writing this at the end of my first week in Viterbo. Its hard to believe its only a week!
When we first got in, we were all very tired and ready to collapse at any moment. Luckily, my host mother, Anna, understood this, and brought me back to the house, a split household out in the countryside south of Viterbo, along a narrow, twisting road through forest and farmland. The house is inhabited in one half by Anna and Sincero, my host parents, and in the other half by Giulia, Georgio, and their daughter Georgia. Giulia is the daughter of Anna and Sincero. The house has a German Shepard dog named Hettore, two cats, an olive grove, some fig and lemon trees, at least 5 cars, and 5 sets of deadbolts on all external doors, an interesting combination.
Viterbo is a beautiful, but mixed, town. There are portions, such as San Pellegrino, which are filled with archways, fountains, and medieval palazzi. Others places bear monuments, churches, fountains that range from the modern era to the ancient. But in other parts, Fascist architecture with such slogans as “DURARE” (work) exist, covered with graffiti. The entire city is worth exploring, as most of the city is quite beautiful. Churches and clock towers dot the skyline, caffes in every piazza, clothes lines strung between and across stone houses; its a wonderful town. The people are quite friendly, and many of the businesses, especially around the school, are willing to slow down their Italian for the American students (which includes, in addition to us, an American University.) Overall, Viterbo is very nice, and I hope to explore more. We seem to have lots of time to explore with other students, which is quite nice.

A view from the central piazza, Sacrario, named for the WWII monument in it. this shows one of the many clock towers in town.




















A lion guarding the cross and orb, all symbols of Viterbo.






















A house from the historical section of town.






















The windows on the patio of the Papal Palace. You can see the roofs of two seperate churches and one fountain.

Friday, August 28, 2009

Boston

I've been spending the last few days in Boston, touring around, going to the aquarium, visiting random colleges, eating good seafood, etc. Its a pretty cool place, once you realise that the only traffic laws are those of physics. Generally, looking bigger than you are, wearing a winter jacket and making loud noises seem to scare off the smaller cars, though. Very nice town though, lots of great food and lost-looking freshmen.




View from the Harvard Bridge. Trivia: 364.4 smoots and an ear long, either measured due to rolling a drunken frat boy, or due to a pledge class exercise. Guess which version the students know, and which version the school tells incoming freshmen?










The hotel I am staying at. Trivia: Obama is staying at the next hotel over, of which I do not have a picture and probably won't. This now explains the barricades that have been blocking the streets for a while.





















Little Blue Penguins at the Boston Aquarium. Trivia: they are adorable. However, they mostly stand around and shiver. The Rockhoppers are more entertaining, although the Jackass penguins are more active swimmers. You get to tease them with shadows in the water. Its fun!








THE DUCKS AT THE PUBLIC GARDENS. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE NOT READ "MAKE WAY FOR DUCKLINGS", GO RELIVE YOUR CHILDHOOD NOW. But seriously, amazing. Ducks!










I have more photos here. I get to meet other SYA students tomorrow at the airport around 1.The flight leaves at 5:30, and arrives in Paris at 6:10am. 6 hour flight. Thus, I have to go to sleep. Will post next from Italy!
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Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Host Family

I was actually able to get some information about my host family today, after weeks of we-won't-even-tell-you-if-they-are-serial-killers-and/or-cannibals.

The Fabi family is an extended family in two adjacent houses that are linked by a connecting house/building. My host mother and host father live in one house, and their daughter lives in the other house with her family. Although they are 70, you wouldn't be able to tell. My host mother is a great cook, enjoys having exchange students, and is very energetic. She likes taking students around to see all sorts of things. My host father is a bit on the quiet side, but loves having host students. The house-complex is apparently a fairly popular hangout spot, and is a 15 minute walk from school. Its a very busy, extended, and Italian family.

Thanks to Ms. Lydon and Mr. Scanlon for the information!

Friday, August 21, 2009

Photos

As the very-scary-26th approaches, I am trying to assemble a collection of photos of New Mexico to show my host family. I have a bunch posted here , and I will be adding. Please comment on them or let me know if there are any particular sites/shots I should add. Thanks!

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Viterbo? Where's That?/Tickets and Tags

So, first entry in the nine-month-long travelogue. In the off chance this ever gets read/updated enough to be worth reading, this is a blog for my adventures and trips in Italy during the '09-'10 school year. I'm going to be staying with a host family in the countryside near a 60 000 person town called Viterbo in Lazio (the same province as Rome).

-Map of Viterbo- (Post continues below)

View Larger Map

I'm finally getting down to crunch/pa(ni)cking time. Currently 10 days until I leave for Boston, then 2.5 days until I leave for Italy. I am currently creating dozens of "to-do" lists and spending most (all) of my waking time trying to cross items off of them.

Latest news so far (besides numerous decisions as to clothes and books to take) is that I have tickets for both the flight to Boston and the flight to Rome via Paris. This has been confirmed by the fact that my dad filled out a form relating to them. I have not personally seen the tickets or reservations, but voce (rumour) says they do exist. I have also received the incredibly useful plastic luggage tags so that my bags have an SYA logo on them. Nothing says "Rob me!" like East coast prep-school tags. Nothing. Except being a tourist. Darn.
-Drew